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  • Hanoi: Shop and Eat

    The 2023 Winter festive season…

    While waiting for a doctor visit in the evening, we went to a store selling genuine leather products. This place is the flagship store owned by “Leather and Shoes Research Institute” on Hoang Hoa Tham Street. 

    The store, with two floors, showcases a variety of distinguished leather products – belts, wallets, handbags, shoes, sandals and more. The first floor has items for men, while the second floor features products for women. The materials are sourced from the skin of ostriches, crocodiles to cows, highlighting the craftsmanship behind each piece.

    S browsed through wallets, intending to buy some as gifts. The staff showed him some models. Though he liked all of them, he preferred the ones with matte finishes, instead of glossy ones. We ended up buying eight wallets.

    A manager came up to us and started a friendly conversation. She was very pleasant, sharing some insights about the products. She mentioned that the company has its own farms for materials and emphasized that all the products are crafted in Vietnam. There was a sense of pride in her voice, and she was really thankful for customers like us who genuinely appreciate the company’s creations. She even surprised us by wishing a Happy Thanksgiving. She said her daughter was currently studying in the US, which explains why she is aware of the event. It was also particularly thoughtful when she reminded the staff to choose nice boxes for our buys because she knew we bought them as gifts.

    A small disappointment was that S couldn’t find sandals in his size because the company doesn’t make them for larger sizes. They were soft, light, and appeared exceptionally comfortable. S wanted them so bad that he even joked about cutting his toes to fit into those.

    Next, S looked for belts. Despite having other alternatives, he’s been loyal to the  belt I bought him nine years ago, even as it shows signs of wear. This time, since he has a special interest in the company’s leather products, I encouraged him to get new belts, so he got two: one crafted from crocodile skin priced at around $120 and the other from cowhide for $18. With the two new belts, I still doubt if he is going to use them anytime soon, given his strong attachment to his current worn belt. 

    We left the store without checking the second floor, which houses female products. S encouraged me to get a new purse because he noticed the zipper on my current one isn’t working well. Oh well, I admit I’m like S in that if we like something, we don’t have an intention to change it for a long time. However, the difference between us is that I have more tolerance for small defects as long as something is still beautiful. Like my pretty purse, I just need to be a bit patient to make the zipper work well. But this won’t happen to S; convenience must be his top priority. 

    Content with our purchases, we left the store and continued walking, hoping to find a taxi. However, it was a mistake as getting a taxi during peak hours on this street wasn’t easy. It was incredibly crowded, jam-packed with vehicles; the sidewalk was filled with various items for sale, making us difficult to find a spot to wait. The noise and dust added the overall discomfort.

    Eventually, we managed to secure a taxi, and the driver drove us to Quán An Ngon, a popular spot for both locals and tourists to experience Vietnamese cuisine.

    Upon entering through the main gate, the enticing aroma of delicious food captivated me. The arrangement of stalls, resembling a traditional village market showcasing various food in the yard, around the restaurant drew me in. The peaceful and nostalgic atmosphere of such markets remains vivid in my memory, which made me feel automatically connected to the restaurant. 

    We ordered quite a bunch of food. We had spring rolls, eel soup, sautéed diced beef (Bò lúc lắc) with French fries, clams in tamarind and butter sauce and grilled shrimp. “Bò lúc lắc” is commonly known as “shaking beef” because “lúc lắc” means “shaking”, likely referring to the pan-frying method over flames, involving shaking the pan, making the beef cubes to shake. However, I find its other English name, “sauteed diced beef” more convincing. The word “lúc lắc” resembles the action and sound of shaking dice, and the beef is cut into cubes that look like dice.

    For drinks, I ordered guava juice and S opted for salted lemonade. As they didn’t have a typical salted lemonade, they put salt and sugar aside for him to make it himself. I finished the meal with my favorite sweet soup as dessert. It was so delicious with coconut milk, jellies and water chestnut stuffed tapioca pearls. The drink service was a bit slow, and the staff brought us broccoli instead of chayote buds (Ngọn su su) due to his misunderstanding; however, the overall dining experience was still very delightful. The whole cost was reasonable, $46 for both. 

    The next day, I brought S to Aeon Mall, a Japanese-run shopping destination that many people favor. Since it was Black Friday, there were a lot of items on sale. We eyed suitcases as we had purchased quite a lot, and he was concerned that our current ones might not be big enough. 

    There were a bunch of plastic suitcases, but we preferred fabric ones. S said plastic holds onto odors longer while fabric absorbs smells better. I found fabric suitcases more appealing for its adjustable space. Another advantage was its lightweight nature. We came across one that caught our interest but I suggested checking out other stores before making a final decision. I didn’t want to miss out on better finds or deals. After a quick tour of suitcase exploration, we circled back to the first store and purchased that one. No discount, but we were both into it, and the black color perfectly matches our existing suitcases. 

    We left the suitcase there, as we didn’t want to drag it around to other shops, and to the third floor, where the food court was for lunch. On the way, I stopped by a massage chair and inserted around 70 cents for a quick 10 minute massage. So pleasant. 

    In the food court, we found a diverse selection of food from different local regions and countries. Hot pot seemed to be the most popular dish there. It’s intriguing that Americans aren’t a fan of hot pot because of “too much work”, heat and food sharing nature instead of individual portions. We spotted Alfredo, an Italian restaurant, my favorite and the allure of grilled meat from Korean restaurants appealed to us. But, we finally settled on Nét Huế, a Vietnamese restaurant, serving cuisine from the imperial city of Hue. 

    When I looked at the menu, I just wanted to order all of them because they all looked delicious. Honestly, Hue cuisine is my favorite due to its spiciness and rich flavors. We ordered grilled pork for S and  “Cơm hến”, a bowl with a mix of rice, baby clams, herbs, and pickles for me. Additionally, we tried Ram. I think “Ram”, “Nem rán”, and “Chả giò” are all spring rolls, each known by different names depending on the region – “Ram” in the Central area, “Nem rán” in the North and “Chả giò” in the South.

    The grilled pork was so good that S couldn’t stop eating it all though he should have saved room for dinner. My Dad would cook us special grilled pork using his secret recipe, reserved for special occasions. Knowing my Dad’s excitement to introduce this to his son-in-law, I had hoped S would have a light lunch, then he would enthusiastically eat my Dad’s food and make him happy. But that mission was too difficult for him. Not only did he eat a lot but also loaded up on sugary drinks. During the meal, he got one salted lemonade and two “Chanh tuyết” (snow lemonade smoothies). Then, he continued with two fresh bubble teas and one bottled bubble tea after leaving the restaurant. Oh, S, he was both satisfied but guilty at the same time. 

    Though S overindulged but I was happy I chose the right restaurant. Honestly, I rarely go wrong with my eating-out choices. However, S is the opposite. Whenever I let him decide where to eat, the experience is often just meh. It’s understandable since he’s not the type to pay attention to reviews or care much before selecting a restaurant.

    The night before S left Vietnam, our family went to a restaurant for its buffet, called Maison Sen. 

    Since we went there during the Christmas season, the facade of the restaurant was adorned with numerous Christmas-themed decorations—red balls, silver leaves, and sparkling strings of warm white lights. It looked fancy, and my niece was in awe when she saw the place.  ​

    The buffet at this chain has never disappointed me; it was fantastic. Everything there was delightful. There were so many options that I couldn’t possibly try them all, so I had to prioritize. I have a liking for seafood, especially shellfish, sashimi, and sweet soup. Those were my main focus. I indulged in a lot of snails and clams, both steamed and grilled, and they were exquisite—juicy, fresh, and naturally sweet. The flavor was exceptional. As for sashimi, I enjoyed salmon as always but was truly impressed with another type of fish. I can’t recall its name, but what stood out was the very firm texture of the fish. 

    One of the big attractions for me each time I return to VN is savoring delicious and flavorful food while immersing myself in a carefree atmosphere. When we were in Aeon’s food court, S threw in a funny idea that he would make room in his belly by inducing vomit, so he could stay there all day and try all the food. We can’t find such a vibe and the abundance of fresh, authentic food in where we live. 

  • Evening in Old Quarter

    The 2023 Winter festive season…

    S and I planned to visit the Old Quarter to look for gifts after dinner. My sister said there wasn’t much too see there on weekdays. She recommended going over the weekend when certain streets are blocked for pedestrians, with various activities like dancing, entertainment shows, and vendors selling toys, savory and sweet snacks and drinks, etc., However, I really didn’t care much about those attractions; I just wanted to experience daily life in the Old Quarter, though it’s already a famous tourist spot. I think any experience has its merits. And I believe I can always find beauty or fun in what I do or where I go.

    We parked the car near Phung Hung street, a foodie hotspot. A lot of young locals hang out here. The whole sidewalk is filled with many plastic chairs and tables, and stalls showing off all kinds of foods, including seafood, grilled meat, and veggies. Along the street, it’s very often to see restaurant staff standing and inviting you to try their food. An unpleasant surprise was that I spotted a place selling dog meat, not just one, but a few displaying whole cooked dogs. To shield S from that sight, I covered his eyes with my hand and urged him to pass by quickly.

    We turned onto Hang Luoc street where they sell a variety of decorative items. The Christmas is around the corner, so the whole street is full of Christmas-themed decorative items.

    My sister took photos of us, but I hesitated, worried sellers might not be happy if we didn’t buy anything. Yet, my sister reassured me, saying we would be good as long as we kept moving without lingering in front of their shops. Plus, it wasn’t crowded, so the sellers would be more easy-going. 

    For an easy stroll, we simply kept moving straight ahead.  Streets in the Old Quarter are very short, so it didn’t take us much time to reach Cha Ca street, then onto the next one, Hang Can.

    The next street is all about toys. We found out they had piggy banks, placed on the sidewalk, at cheap prices. You know what, they looked 99% like the ones that we almost spent $45 each at a fancy store a few days ago. At that time, we really wanted to get those because they looked so adorable. But they didn’t have carved stamps, representing Bat Trang village, renowned for crafting ceramics, though the store was a representative of items from this village. Therefore, we held off buying them. 

    We kept going and then stopped by a small store, selling crafted goods on Luong Van Can Street. S went inside and was attracted immediately to the Vietnamese dolls, skillfully crafted by local artists. The dolls represent Vietnamese ethnic people. The prices for the two he liked were expensive, around $300 for both. After bargaining, we got a 10% discount. S was very happy to have found gifts for his nieces. 

    Then we turned onto Hang Hanh and Bao Khanh streets, intending to revisit a crafted stone shop, but unfortunately, it had been replaced with a different gift shop.

    We strolled around Ho Guom, the Sword Lake, the heart of Hanoi. Then, we crossed the main street to enter Trang Tien street, where we stopped by Trang Tien ice cream shop, a local favorite and a must-visit destination for tourists.

    Next, we decided to take a break at Aha Coffee, a near-by coffee shop, before heading home. I ordered “Cà phê phin”, Vietnamese traditional coffee, hoping they would bring out a small cup with a stainless filter on the top, reminiscent of how I used to enjoy it in the past. However, without much surprise, they brought a cup already filled with hot coffee and a thin layer of condensed milk at the bottom. I’ve noticed that the practice of serving coffee with a stainless filter is disappearing. I have tried various well-known coffee shops, but I haven’t successfully found a typtical “Cà phê phin”. It’s understandable that things have changed to align with the fast-paced industrial rhythm. However, the coffee retained its bold and robust flavor, perfect to my taste. Sipping coffee is a retreat to me, a moment of connection with myself, offering peace and equilibrium, precisely what I needed that night (…).

    We had a fun and happy evening; we’ve found beautiful gifts for our kids. Though there were small bumps along the way (…), they are all parts of my life’s journey.

  • Affirmations

    D4 – 1:23 pm, 01/25/2024: Those words are a bitter, ironic portrayal of me, but I won’t let them ruin my day.

    D2 – 11:24 am, 01/23/2024: I’ll embrace pain.

    D1 – 4:20 pm, 01/22/2024: I’m feeling so weak now, but this moment will pass.

  • Vietnam travel – Tam Dao

    I visited Tam Dao ages ago, and to be honest, it didn’t leave a strong impressions on me. What sticks in my memory is battling car sickness on the twisty and turny road. One highlight from that trip was savoring the delicious crunchy sautéed chayote buds. I guess the main reason those memories aren’t as vivid is because I didn’t really know the people I went with; it was organized by a social club I had just joined. However, this recent trip left me immense joy and wonderful memories as I went with S and our family. Growing older and living far from my family has taught me to cherish precious moments spent with loved ones.

    Initially, S wasn’t interested in going as he felt tired. But I could tell my sister was really excited about the trip. Not wanting to let her down, I persuaded him to join us. He agreed once he found out there was a waterfall to explore. The drive wasn’t too long, just around 1.5 hours from Hanoi. As we approached the destination, the scenery unfolded with lush mountains, and grand houses and charming hotels nestled on the mountainside. S seemed impressed by the view, snapping photos constantly.

    We went through narrow mountain roads and eventually parked in a place near the waterfall. Following a small path, we encountered a stairway (of around 300 steps, though I’m not certain) leading to the waterfall.

    Various shops and stalls line the way, selling snacks, drinks, and souvenirs. The sellers were enthusiastic and friendly, constantly asking us to use their products but we didn’t want to stop midway, so we declined. One seller kindly offered a stick, suggesting it could make our walk easier. S responded, “I’m not that old.” His dry humor had everyone bursting into laughter. 

    Finally, we reached the last step. From there, the waterfall came into view, but we were all taken aback by a foul smell. The water was polluted, with white foam in the bottom. It seemed more like wastewater from nearby houses and hotels than natural water. According to S, most of the ground is rocky, which probably leaves nowhere for the sewage to go, so it ends up at the lower level, contaminating the waterfall. We quickly ran away from the place. It’s so funny that when my sister saw me in boots, she had urged me to bring a pair of sandals because in her imagination, we would have a playful time in the water. 

    Going up was more challenging than going down. Everyone grew tired. My knees and legs felt a bit tired but that was it. That’s probably because doing household chores and yard work often has somehow given me strength. My sister, on the other hand, felt dizzy, struggled with shallow breath, and had to ask B & H to help her walk up. And S joked that now he needed a stick. LOL!!!

    After reaching the final step, we took a break. The kids got ice cream and we went for grilled eggs. The dipping sauce was amazing. I didn’t know how it was made but gosh, a mix of salt, kumquat juice, pepper and a secret ingredient made the grilled eggs up to a whole new level. We also ordered “Nước Sấu”, a macerated fruit juice, representing a traditional drink of Hanoi in the past when beverage choices, especially for students, were quite limited. “Sấu”, or Indochina Dragonplum fruit, is picked when green, and soaked in sugar. Its essence is then mixed with water to create a sweet and sour beverage. The flesh of the macerated fruit was sweet, pleasantly sour, and crispy. Although I used to like it a lot, the experience that day wasn’t as great. 

    We continued exploring the area and then stopped for some savory snacks. As I said, Vietnamese people are big on food, always eager to try various dishes, especially while traveling. Knowing we would have dinner later, we didn’t want to overeat snacks. My sister ordered small portions of grilled meat and sticky rice. The grilled meat had distinct flavors, each marinated uniquely, and they were wrapped around veggies like mustard greens and “chayote buds”. We also enjoyed them with herbs and some leaves , creating a fantastic combo. The sticky rice was equally special, displaying various colors from different types of rice. It was tender, sweet, and delicious. However, I didn’t eat much to save room for dinner.

    Next, we ventured through the area by grabbing an electric vehicle for a short tour. The driver took us through the small roads, passing houses, restaurants, shops, and giving us a top view of the landscape. He also introduced a temple on the way, but none of us felt like going inside; I hesitated too, considering I was wearing shorts, which wasn’t appropriate for entering a religious place. We continued on the road while trying to take some nice photos of the sunset and the mountainous view.

    The scenery was undoubtedly beautiful but I found it somewhat boring as it looked the same throughout the place. The driver finally took us to where we parked. Though the car tour didn’t leave a strong impression of the natural view, observing people and experiencing the bustling atmosphere of daily life brought me a lot of joy.

    Afterward, we leisurely strolled around the place, and gosh, food was everywhere! All sorts of snacks and savory treats, making it a feast for the eyes and nose. In the central area, hotels and restaurants stood shoulder to shoulder with new buildings under construction. This made me ponder how they could attract enough customers to fill all the rooms, given the relatively small size of the tourist place. There didn’t seem to be enough space for public activities. A small square was brimming with people, sharing limited space for various activities and performances.

    Long walking made us feel hungry quickly, so we stopped at the restaurant my sister had previously enjoyed. Our order included Indian wampee stuffed grilled chicken, chayote buds (definitely), and fried rice. That was pretty much all I could recall.

    After dinner, we continued wandering around the town. As night fell, the place took on much more enchanting allure, bathed in warm, cozy light. The European-style architecture, especially in the chilly early days of winter, exuded a romantic atmosphere, even for those with lonely hearts. 

    We paused at a stall for my sister to buy chestnuts. In my memory, whenever I saw this type of nut sold on the street, it reminded me that winter had actually arrived. S got intrigued by dried fruits in various colors. However, my sister told us not to buy them, concerning that these imported fruits might have a lot of additives and preservatives. So, we decided to pass on them.

    We then visited the church—a stone structure perched in a high location that offers a stunning view of the whole area at night. The crisp air, gentle breeze, crystal moon light, and especially the sweet fragrance from nearby plants, collectively crafted a truly remarkable experience.

    Leaving the church, my mind was still lingering with the pleasant floral scent, very familiar, reminiscent of the calmness, peace, and tranquility associated with a type of plant often seen at temples. But I couldn’t pinpoint exactly which plants the enchanting scent was coming from. As we walked back to the parking lot, I saw a plant full of flowers along the road. I stopped, smelled—oh my goodness, it was that same scent as the one from the church. Reflecting on that specific type of plant at temples and looking at that plant, wow they looked completely different, but it was remarkable how similar they smelled.

    We left the church, heading back to Hanoi with a surplus of energy, satisfaction, and joy from the trip. It was already dark, and my sister was so afraid of driving without street lights. It brought back memories of my initial days when I first moved to the US. During those times, when S drove at night, I used to think, “Wow, I would never be able to drive in the darkness like this,” and I truly admired him for it. However, as I became more accustomed to the traffic there, I realized that driving in the darkness has fewer distractions than navigating streets filled with cars and bright lights, especially the white ones.

    We returned to Hanoi around 9 p.m. Despite that, my sister still had a lot of energy. We headed to a coffee shop where children could enjoy painting statues as well. The coffee shop showed off cute and lovely decor, perfect for teenagers and kids, not my old soul. Anyway, this place offered the best combination of entertainment and enjoying drinks. 

    We ordered bubble tea, while my sister and brother-in-law got unsweetened tea. I got salted coffee as well. They typically serve this coffee with ice, but I prefer it hot, so I told them to make it that way. 

    Then, we chose statues and got tools and colors to get ready for painting. While the kids picked cute and lovely statues, S chose a massive dragon. It looked cocky and aggressive, appearing ready to explode with emotions like “someone”. 

    That dragon had loads of details to paint, and at first, S was thrilled about it. He didn’t care how the dragon would look, he just went with the colors he liked, which were obviously bold choices. However, his enthusiasm waned quickly, right after finishing the half front of the dragon. He asked me for help, and then my brother-in-law and B also joined. I tried to balance out the colors so that the dragon would appear clearer. The completed dragon turned out really cool with vivid, bold, and colorful hues. Its appearance perfectly matched the traits I envisioned for it.

    In general, it was a wonderful trip. We relished our time together, had loads of fun, enjoyed delicious food, and ended the day with vibrant, beautiful statues. We captured special photos of the landscape and of us, carrying beautiful memories for many years to come. 

  • Vietnam travel – Mai Chau

    ​We tried to squeeze in some short vacations during our time in Vietnam amidst medical appointments. The first destination was Mai Chau—a mountainous area, a three-and-a-half-hour drive each way from Hanoi.

    When we were near the tourist place, we made a pit stop at a roadside rest area. There, they offered a variety of food and snacks. We opted to savor three distinct treats: grilled eggs, grilled pork, and sticky rice cooked in bamboo. While the eggs were kind of meh, just like regular boiled ones. But the pork was something else, marinated to perfection. The Sichuan pepper (hạt mắc khén) gave it a rich flavor, complemented by the delightful aroma from charcoal grilling. Explaining why the meat tasted exceptional, the seller said it comes from pigs raised naturally on wholesome feed rather than industrial fare. According to him, these pigs grow slowly and weigh less than the typical ones. The last treat was sticky rice which was truly delightful—soft, tender, and sweet. Since lunch was around the corner, I had to hold back from overeating. Meanwhile, S was trying pickled hot peppers. These tiny things were crazy spicy but he loved them. We bought two jars and later found out we got ripped off; each jar was double the price in the central tourist area. Bye-bye that place – won’t be seeing us again.

    Right after that, we headed to the center for lunch. Vietnamese people have a deep passion for food, and we were eager to explore various cuisines during our trip. My sister picked a restaurant that she previously had a pleasant experience with, and we quickly ordered steamed snails, grilled chicken, and grilled fish. These snails, according to the owner, unlike river snails, live in the mountains, eat grass only. Therefore, they are considered a clean source of food. The grilled chicken, stuffed with fragrant Indian wampee leaves (lá mắc mật) had an enticing flavor, but honestly, I preferred the leaves on their own. The charcoal-grilled fish smelled amazing. We paired it with herbs, veggies, and wrapped it all in rice paper, dipping it into a delicious sweet and sour fish sauce of sugar, vinegar, garlic, and hot peppers.

    Well, Americans typically avoid bones and prefer boneless meat. Whole fish or chicken are not commonly consumed. Snails are also not on their menu. But since we’re exploring Vietnam, I wanted him to experience as much authentic cuisine as possible. Anyway, he’s not much of a food enthusiast and finished eating quickly. While we enjoyed the dishes, he wandered around. The area had various shops with everything from toys and bags to blankets and crafts—a collection of miscellaneous and eclectic things. Among these, there were many embroidered products, making me ponder whether they were locally made or possibly imported from China for cost-effectiveness and convenience rather than being locally crafted.

    Following lunch, we grabbed an electric car to check out the ethnic villages. It cost us $18 for 8 people. (The prices, displayed on the vehicle, are set per person. Kids ride without any charge).

    From the vehicle, we enjoyed a beautiful, sunny, breezy afternoon and took in the landscape with its mountains, rice fields, buffaloes, and stilt houses. The mountains are stunning but the rice fields don’t leave much of an impression since they were bare at that time. Stilt houses, a distinctive feature in mountainous ethnic regions, stand out with their unique design. They are crafted from wood, featuring steps leading to the first floors, supported by pillars.

    As we passed through each village, we came across numerous shops lining the road, displaying a diverse array of items. We made a quick stop at one store, where S bought a thin blanket at $6.50. Soon after, women adorned in ethnic attire invited us to join them in a traditional dance. The dance is called “nhảy sạp”. In this dance, two equal groups of people, each holding a stick in their hands. With the music playing, they bring the sticks together and dancers swiftly leap in. Subsequently, as they pull the the sticks apart, dancers leap between the gaps. The sticks’ movements create a lively, rhythmic pattern that is in harmony with the music.

    We passed through 4 or 5 villages, and then the driver brought us to a bamboo forest to witness bamboo flowers. He said it’s this rare thing since they only pop up when the bamboos are on their last legs. Not sure if that’s true, but it got us curious enough to pay some extra fee for him to take us there. Upon arrival, it wasn’t exactly a forest; rather, it was more like a bunch of bamboo bushes. Only one of them was in bloom, and the flowers were tiny. They hung together like little strings, but due to their small size and the height of the bamboo, I couldn’t snap a decent photo or fully grasp the beauty of the flowers.

    I was eager to explore further, thinking we were still en route to the final spot, an ethnic community for some cool activities. However, my sister said this was it; the tour was done. Unbelievable! We just cruised through the villages on the main road, did quick stops at only two or three shops, and checked out just one stilt house. Though the end of the tour was unexpected, it’s still a hilarious surprise.

    The driver then brought us back to where our car was parked. S discreetly gave him some tips, following my advice not to let my mom see it. In Vietnam, tipping isn’t the norm, and my mom strongly believes it’s a waste of money, so it’s better to keep it quiet.

    On the way back, we intended to visit a Vietnamese steak restaurant, however, S just wanted to get home as quickly as possible. All that sitting, be it on the flights and in the car, really took a toll on him.

    Despite not being particularly impressed by the natural surroundings, I personally enjoyed the trip. It was a chance to make lasting memories with my family. Plus, savoring the local eats was a highlight for me. On the contrary, S wasn’t too fond of the tour, saying that it was kind of staged, like a set up for tourists. He’s more into natural and spontaneous adventures.

  • November ramblings, 2023

    My time in Vietnam

    November was incredibly busy for me, filled with a multitude of activities including medical appointments, vacations, exploring for gifts, shopping, and gatherings with friends and family. While it brought immense joy, it also had its share of stress and dark moments.

    Here are several photos capturing intriguing and memorable moments from that month:

    A street barbershop

    A meat stand

    Incense and handicrafts at artisan fair

    Health care center

    This spot is very similar to a massage salon. Massage is Vietnamized as “mát xa”, sounding quite similar. However, this place doesn’t use this term to refer to their services; instead, they use “xoa bóp” (rubbing and kneading) and “bấm huyệt” (acupressure). These services draw on Oriental health care methods to relax muscles and ease joint- or nerve-related pain. Honestly, there’s not much deviation from the typical massage, especially deep-tissue massage; it’s more or less the same. I initially visited this place for IVF acupuncture, but they were unfamiliar with it. I decided to try their “massage”, and it was fantastic. The attentive young lady took care of me with diligence and care, leaving me feeling remarkably relieved. The price was surprisingly affordable, only $10.32, without tips. Notably, they don’t accept tips, and if you register for a 10-session package, the price would be even lower, $2.06 less per session.

    If you guys want a healthy massage (you catch my drift, right?), this kind of place is definitely worth a try. A key phrase for searching is “xoa bóp, bấm huyệt”.

    A trash hauler

    Trash is collected everyday, and the vehicle comes with a speaker to remind residents to take their trash out.

    Mom’s fried chicken

    It’s a staple in Vietnamese cuisine, enjoyed in daily meals and favored by many as a popular dish.

    Salted coffee

    Over it, I had a heart-to-heart talk with B. We need more talks to be able to fully share all aspects of our lives after years of being apart.

    A bouquet of roses greeting S at airport

    A cup of coffee, as bitter as my soul that night

    A gift from coffee shop

    The message reads “Apologies if our service hasn’t met your expectations.” How lovely and sweet!

    A typical alley in Hanoi

  • From B

    “You have to go forward until the path clears for you, and it will because you are exhausted and you have to survive. Getting there is so hard.”

    Photo by u015eule u00c7abuk on Pexels.com

  • Unlock American English Voice

    Greetings, English learners!

    Today, I’m going to share with you the ways to enhance your English voice, making it sound natural, effortless, yet powerful. This subject has lingered in my mind for months, but the right moment never seemed to come. Today, however, I’m feeling enough energy and motivation to delve into it, one that I’m deeply passionate about and have dedicated a countless amount of time, energy, and effort to master.

    This post doesn’t detail the specifics of the IPA chart, sound reduction, sound connection, assimilation or elision as you are likely familiar with these topics, and there are ample free resources covering them. While these aspects significantly contribute to clear and correct pronunciation, instruction on producing individual sounds isn’t my aim. The ultimate goal of this sharing is to assist you in achieving a natural, effortless, yet powerful voice in American English. For this purpose, a more comprehensive approach is necessary, involving a thorough understanding of the physical aspects of speaking American English.  

    To avoid wasting your time, kindly disregard this post if you have no concerns with your voice or no desire to reduce your native language accent or adopt a general American English accent. However, if you are grappling with any of the following issues, this post is a perfect fit, I believe, a game changer, that drastically addresses those challenges, ultimately boosting your confidence in expressing yourself with your own voice.

    English learners, this post holds the solution to the following issues:

    Voice-Identity Mismatch: You don’t hold affection for your voice and sense it doesn’t truly represent your authentic self. 

    Robotic And Rigid Voice: Despite your earnest efforts to improve your English, you find yourself unable to speak it naturally and effortlessly due to a lack of control over your articulators. There is an overuse of articulative muscles and surrounding muscles, causing restrictions and tension in the movement of the articulators. 

    Inflexible, Non-adaptive Voice: When you speak alone or in a small group, you sound fluent. However, you encounter difficulties in open spaces or crowds where louder speech is required. Your delivery becomes unclear and disjointed, primarily due to a lack of smooth and consistent transitions between pitches in your voice. The issue is rooted by the failure in maintaining stability in your articulators during speech.  

    Shallow, Flat And Weak Voice: Your voice lacks depth, energy, richness and fullness because there isn’t sufficient space inside your mouth, inadequate breath support, and a narrow or blocked vocal tract. 

    Native Language Influence: Despite your fluency with phonemes and dedicated practice of pronunciation rules such as sound reduction, connection or assimilation, your voice is still heavily influenced by your native language accent. While mastering phonemes greatly improves your English voice, understanding how the articulators function in American English speech is crucial for reducing your native accent.

    Speaking Anxiety: Though you excel in vocabulary, grammar and sentence formation, you lack confidence in your English voice. This stems from difficulties in coordinating your articulators effectively. You get stuck in identifying a right approach to speaking fluently.

    Native Speaker Listening Challenge: You have watched numerous movies, YouTube videos, or podcasts by English native speakers; however, comprehending what they say remains difficult. Apart from encountering new vocabulary, cultural aspects, or unfamiliar knowledge, the main hindrance to catching up is the lack of full understanding the physical features of American English speech, making it feel like they speak too fast.

    Slower Speech Rate: This is affected by your native languages, such as Vietnamese. Speaking American English without changing or adjusting the way the articulators work based on your native language prevents you from speaking American English at a native speaker’s speed naturally. 

    Moving forward, let’s explore the physical aspects of American English, specifically understanding how the articulators work because they are the key to address those issues. While there are numerous documents on the Internet explaining articulators, they aren’t geared towards English learners. Instead, they target individuals, both native speakers and those seeking to enhance or modify their vocal capabilities. This post, however, is designed with a focus on English learners, yet it can also provide valuable insights for native speakers facing similar challenges or for those in the transgender community.

    The articulatory system shown in the picture below encompasses 1) lips, 2) teeth, 3) alveolar ridge, 4) hard palate, 5) Soft palate, 6) tongue, 7) jaw, 8) nasal cavity. In this post, rather than analyzing the features or functions of each articulator, I will concentrate on the characteristics of American English based on how these articulators work. This approach, I believe, provides a practical and solid guide for improving your voice. 

    Image source: Internet

    When speaking English, keep in mind the following key points:

    1. Open the mouth vertically rather than horizontally. Doing this will elongate your vocal tract, automatically open the back of your mouth, making your voice deeper and fuller. Horizontal mouth opening narrows the oral space, hindering the tongue’s free movement due to limited space.  

    2.  Move the jaw back and forth, not up and down. During this motion, the lower jaw slides smoothly on the hinges (TMJ) located in front of the ears. Be aware that the movement should be gentle and within a small, controlled range rather than the full extent of its motion.

    3. Position the tongue towards the front of the mouth, in proximity to the lips, teeth and alveolar ridge. This positioning facilitates easy pronunciation of consonants and ensures a smooth transition between syllables.

    4. Slightly purse the lips when speaking. This way will help maintain a vertical mouth shape.

    5. Expand the back of the mouth. Elevating the soft palate, keeping the throat open, and relaxing the neck will aid in opening up the space at the back. 

    6. The articulatory muscles should relax during speech, especially those in the tongue, neck, throat, and around the cheek areas. 

    7. The deeper breath, the louder the voice becomes. When you need a louder voice, ensure inhalation reaches deep into the diaphragm.  

    8. The vocal tract comprising the laryngeal cavity, the pharynx, and the oral cavity should be clear. Avoid blocking the vocal tract while speaking unless it is necessary. 

    Ensure your voice remains consistent for a natural, effortless, yet powerful sound. To achieve this, maintaining stability and smooth cooperation between articulators is crucial for the desired result. Regardless of the sound produced, the articulators should return to their original positions that I mentioned above after adjusting for different sounds. This secures articulator stability throughout speech.

    I hope you now have a clear understanding of the physical aspects of speaking American English. Best of luck on your practice. I would be so delighted to receive positive feedback on your progress. Feel free to ask if you have any questions about this post or English voice. 

  • Vietnamese coffee culture and memories

    My day usually begins with a cup of black coffee.

    I love coffee. I’m not a coffee expert or anything, but the taste and flavors just make my day better. It keeps me focused, awake, and makes my me-time moments more enjoyable.

    I usually go for black coffee, especially the dark brown one from French Gourmet. Occasionally, I switch up my coffee, adding either sugar and cream, condensed milk, or fresh milk to enjoy different flavors. When I go out, a Mocha from Starbucks or a creamy McCafe will be my to-go orders. A Latte will also be a pleasant choice. They all just hit the right spot taste-wise. During my time in Vietnam, sipping on coffee with a hint of rum filled me with sentimental moments. However, most of the time, “Cafe phin” was my traditional pick. It’s a national favorite, where ground coffee snugly fits into a stainless filter, pressed firmly by the lid. The filter sits atop a small cup with a layer of condensed milk at the bottom. As hot water slowly pours into the filter, the coffee starts to drip through tiny holes.

    Sipping on “Cafe phin” is like a gentle nudge to hit pause, savor the moment and embrace a bit of patience. It doesn’t come ready in a rush – it takes time for drops of coffee to fill the cup. They don’t make a whole lot, just a very small portion, a subtle hint, telling you to enjoy it slowly rather than downing it all at once. Made with 100% Robusta beans or a mix of Robusta and Arabica, this drink packs a punch compared to regular American brew. It’s not just about the bold, bitter flavor; it’s the caffeine content that’s best taken slow unless you’re up for a bit of jittery ride. 

    I had a funny memory with my boss when I introduced him to it. The moment it was placed on the table, he chugged it down and ordered another cup. Again, he finished it in one quick gulp, ignoring my warning about the coffee’s strength. No surprise that he got hit with a caffeine shock. It was probably etched in his memory, in both a bad and good way.

    Choosing the most favorite coffee shop is tough as every place has its charm. There’s a diverse array of coffee shops, each tailored to serve different needs. Imagine this: If you have no time for a sit-down coffee, you can grab a cup from mobile coffee shops on the way. These could be stylish coffee carts or just a cheap motorbike with a box of coffee bottles and ice packs strapped on the seat, and accessories swinging from the handles. And if you’re lazy to venture far, there’s always a cozy local coffee shop just steps away, maybe even downstairs in your residence as it’s common for people in Vietnam to live and work in the same location. If you need a quiet work spot, check out bookish coffee shops or brand ones with comfy seating. Other places have killer views or unique designs – perfect for gatherings or attracting folks who aren’t just there for the coffee. In the evening, coffee shops have live music shows, be it instrumental vibes or vocal performance, almost every night.

    Living in the US, I don’t hang out at coffee shops much, partly because of the cultural differences in how people experience coffee here. Plus, I’m used to savoring my quiet mornings at home with a cup of coffee. Despite this change, Vietnamese coffee shops hold my special memories. They’re the spots where I laughed and enjoyed a great time with friends, escaped from boring and demotivated moments, and left feeling more energized, relaxed and good about myself.

  • My early driving lessons

    ​Selling my faithful old car, my companion from my novice driving days, brought back a wave of memories about my early driving lessons. 

    During my years in Vietnam, my primary mode of transportation was a scooter. I never considered myself a proficient driver, and I had a limited understanding of traffic laws, with my knowledge mostly limited to recognizing traffic lights. My indifference to these regulations stemmed from the fact that the scooter was merely a means of getting from one place to another. My driving skills were entirely based on intuition, honed through years of familiarity with scooters to the extent that it became a second nature skill. I couldn’t even recall how I initially learned to ride a motorbike.

    When it came to driving a car, I faced considerable challenges. I had never considered driving a car before, and the thought of it was daunting. However, since I moved to the US where cars are the main transportation vehicle, I had to learn how to drive a car, a gateway to freedom. DR volunteered to be my instructor, and we began practicing in a nearby parking lot. This allowed me to become acquainted with the steering wheel, brake, accelerator, as well as various driving modes. DR also taught me how to use and adjust mirrors. To improve my parking skills, he even bought traffic cones to help me practice.

    After several weeks of practice in the safe area, I started driving onto local roads with his guidance. The slower speeds there eased my nervousness, but I remained terrified when it came to turning or changing lanes. I struggled with understanding traffic signs, road layouts, and right-of-way rules. The complex road systems, especially the multi-lane roads, left me bewildered.

    Moreover, when other vehicles merged or turned into my lane, it added to my anxiety. I had a tendency to brake or slow down excessively as I was so scared that they would pass by me or show up right in front of me suddenly. This was a habit influenced by the driving culture I was accustomed to in Vietnam, where drivers often behaved with little regard for traffic laws. They went, stopped, sped up, slowed down, or changed lanes at their convenience without considering other drivers. 

    As for changing or merging lanes, I found it particularly challenging, as it required simultaneous attention to driving, monitoring surroundings, checking mirrors, and turning the head. The fear, nervousness, and anxiety associated with being new to driving, my unfamiliarity with the car, and adjusting to a different driving culture sometimes left me feeling “paralyzed.” There were moments when I successfully managed tricky situations, but it felt like a feat I couldn’t quite comprehend.

    My driving lessons with DR continued for about six months while S instructed me twice. However, he was strictly critical, which led to tense lessons and heated arguments. I was disappointed and even hated him. I didn’t want to talk or see him the day after the second lesson. Then, S arranged a professional instructor to provide me with ten lessons. The lessons with the instructor were not particularly memorable, except for one tip about positioning the car further to the right when waiting to make a right turn. But hiring a professional instructor increased S’s trust in my driving skills, which helped reduce his anxiety when accompanying me afterwards. He sacarstically said, “From now on, I won’t need to wear diapers when I’m in your car’s passenger seat.”

    S did, however, offer amazing driving tips. First, he taught me how to merge onto the highway safely. According to him, I should drive steadily on the merging lane. When my vehicle aligned with the road, checked the rearview mirror for vehicles approaching from the highway, then glanced at the side mirror to assess the lane I was merging into. Finally, I had to quickly check the blind spot by looking through the back seat window on the merging side before confidently entering the highway. It sounds simple, but I’m still nervous when doing it, especially in heavy and fast-moving traffic and because knowing all the tips doesn’t mean I am automatically an expert driver. However, this technique has significantly enhanced my confidence in handling challenging situations.

    Another tip from S improved my turning onto the main road. I had a habit of taking cautious turns due to nervousness, which could lead to safety concerns. Instead of moving further forward towards the center of the merging lane, my nervousness often prompted me to turn the wheel earlier than necessary. This premature turning meant I’d end up either closer to vehicles in the adjacent lane or dangerously near the road’s edges or pavement boundaries. S advised me to keep driving forward and maintain my focus straight ahead until I was closer to the middle of the intended lane, before initiating the turn. This adjustment allowed me to drive more comfortably, making my turns smoother and safer.

    S also provided guidance on smooth braking. I tended to brake abruptly and release it too quickly due to nervousness, causing jerky movements. S advised me to brake gently and release it gradually, which made a significant difference in my vehicle control and my overall confidence. 

    Additionally, I remember the decal S ordered for my car, which read “New Driver, please be patient.” His thoughtful gesture had a surprising impact, eliciting sympathy, tolerance, understanding, and friendly gestures from other drivers on the road. This support from fellow motorists eased my anxiety during my early days of driving. Despite these improvements, I must admit that I will never be a great driver. Parallel parking and driving in bustling downtown areas remain intimidating for me.

    Reflecting on my journey of learning to drive, I am so thankful for S’s wonderful tips, extremely grateful to DR for his dedication and patience in teaching me, as well as for his courage in sitting in the passenger seat while I, a complete novice, took the wheel. I’m also deeply appreciative of MK for gifting me a car that became more than just a vehicle; it became a trusted companion during the ups and downs of life, especially during my darkest moments.

    Goodbye, my old friend!