Vietnam travel – Mai Chau

​We tried to squeeze in some short vacations during our time in Vietnam amidst medical appointments. The first destination was Mai Chau—a mountainous area, a three-and-a-half-hour drive each way from Hanoi.

When we were near the tourist place, we made a pit stop at a roadside rest area. There, they offered a variety of food and snacks. We opted to savor three distinct treats: grilled eggs, grilled pork, and sticky rice cooked in bamboo. While the eggs were kind of meh, just like regular boiled ones. But the pork was something else, marinated to perfection. The Sichuan pepper (hạt mắc khén) gave it a rich flavor, complemented by the delightful aroma from charcoal grilling. Explaining why the meat tasted exceptional, the seller said it comes from pigs raised naturally on wholesome feed rather than industrial fare. According to him, these pigs grow slowly and weigh less than the typical ones. The last treat was sticky rice which was truly delightful—soft, tender, and sweet. Since lunch was around the corner, I had to hold back from overeating. Meanwhile, S was trying pickled hot peppers. These tiny things were crazy spicy but he loved them. We bought two jars and later found out we got ripped off; each jar was double the price in the central tourist area. Bye-bye that place – won’t be seeing us again.

Right after that, we headed to the center for lunch. Vietnamese people have a deep passion for food, and we were eager to explore various cuisines during our trip. My sister picked a restaurant that she previously had a pleasant experience with, and we quickly ordered steamed snails, grilled chicken, and grilled fish. These snails, according to the owner, unlike river snails, live in the mountains, eat grass only. Therefore, they are considered a clean source of food. The grilled chicken, stuffed with fragrant Indian wampee leaves (lá mắc mật) had an enticing flavor, but honestly, I preferred the leaves on their own. The charcoal-grilled fish smelled amazing. We paired it with herbs, veggies, and wrapped it all in rice paper, dipping it into a delicious sweet and sour fish sauce of sugar, vinegar, garlic, and hot peppers.

Well, Americans typically avoid bones and prefer boneless meat. Whole fish or chicken are not commonly consumed. Snails are also not on their menu. But since we’re exploring Vietnam, I wanted him to experience as much authentic cuisine as possible. Anyway, he’s not much of a food enthusiast and finished eating quickly. While we enjoyed the dishes, he wandered around. The area had various shops with everything from toys and bags to blankets and crafts—a collection of miscellaneous and eclectic things. Among these, there were many embroidered products, making me ponder whether they were locally made or possibly imported from China for cost-effectiveness and convenience rather than being locally crafted.

Following lunch, we grabbed an electric car to check out the ethnic villages. It cost us $18 for 8 people. (The prices, displayed on the vehicle, are set per person. Kids ride without any charge).

From the vehicle, we enjoyed a beautiful, sunny, breezy afternoon and took in the landscape with its mountains, rice fields, buffaloes, and stilt houses. The mountains are stunning but the rice fields don’t leave much of an impression since they were bare at that time. Stilt houses, a distinctive feature in mountainous ethnic regions, stand out with their unique design. They are crafted from wood, featuring steps leading to the first floors, supported by pillars.

As we passed through each village, we came across numerous shops lining the road, displaying a diverse array of items. We made a quick stop at one store, where S bought a thin blanket at $6.50. Soon after, women adorned in ethnic attire invited us to join them in a traditional dance. The dance is called “nhảy sạp”. In this dance, two equal groups of people, each holding a stick in their hands. With the music playing, they bring the sticks together and dancers swiftly leap in. Subsequently, as they pull the the sticks apart, dancers leap between the gaps. The sticks’ movements create a lively, rhythmic pattern that is in harmony with the music.

We passed through 4 or 5 villages, and then the driver brought us to a bamboo forest to witness bamboo flowers. He said it’s this rare thing since they only pop up when the bamboos are on their last legs. Not sure if that’s true, but it got us curious enough to pay some extra fee for him to take us there. Upon arrival, it wasn’t exactly a forest; rather, it was more like a bunch of bamboo bushes. Only one of them was in bloom, and the flowers were tiny. They hung together like little strings, but due to their small size and the height of the bamboo, I couldn’t snap a decent photo or fully grasp the beauty of the flowers.

I was eager to explore further, thinking we were still en route to the final spot, an ethnic community for some cool activities. However, my sister said this was it; the tour was done. Unbelievable! We just cruised through the villages on the main road, did quick stops at only two or three shops, and checked out just one stilt house. Though the end of the tour was unexpected, it’s still a hilarious surprise.

The driver then brought us back to where our car was parked. S discreetly gave him some tips, following my advice not to let my mom see it. In Vietnam, tipping isn’t the norm, and my mom strongly believes it’s a waste of money, so it’s better to keep it quiet.

On the way back, we intended to visit a Vietnamese steak restaurant, however, S just wanted to get home as quickly as possible. All that sitting, be it on the flights and in the car, really took a toll on him.

Despite not being particularly impressed by the natural surroundings, I personally enjoyed the trip. It was a chance to make lasting memories with my family. Plus, savoring the local eats was a highlight for me. On the contrary, S wasn’t too fond of the tour, saying that it was kind of staged, like a set up for tourists. He’s more into natural and spontaneous adventures.