Begin life at forty

Tag: Vietnam travel

  • Vietnam travel: Bat Trang Pottery Museum

    On the day of our visit to Bat Trang Pottery Museum, I was tired because I slept late the night before. I was in a rush to get to the museum, and forgot my phone and wallet. I had to borrow money from my friend, KA to cover the taxi and everything else during the visit.

    The museum has a distinctive design, resembling a group of pottery wheels. The building features the walls with an undulating, wave-like pattern that mimics the smooth curves of pottery being shaped. This is enhanced by the earthy brown color of the walls, like the natural hue of clay, which adds a touch of raw authenticity. This color complements the stonish gray tiles in the front courtyard, creating a harmonious and soothing atmosphere, ideal for a ceramics & pottery museum. The overall design offers a cozy and welcoming environment for visitors.

    The first floor is an array of shops displaying and selling a variety of ceramic products and knick-knacks, including vases, cups, decorative pieces and artistic sculptures. The ceramics are beautifully crafted with intricate and delicate details. Prices are reasonable as well.

    After exploring the shops, we moved to the second floor, which serves as the museum’s main center. This floor is divided into areas with different focuses. One highlights artistic pottery works, while another showcases the evolution of pottery production. This section allows visitors to observe the changes in colors, techniques, and shapes in making pottery across different periods, providing insight into the development and characteristics of pottery throughout history. The last space details the pottery-making process. Here, you can see traditional tools used in pottery, remnants of products tested for color, and patterns and statues depicting various stages of pottery creation, such as throwing, glazing, and molding.

    On the third floor, we explored the light sculpture art exhibit. This section features handcrafted wood in various shapes and forms, illuminated to highlight famous Vietnamese individuals who have made significant contributions to the nation’s development. Additionally, there is a sculpture created from recycled materials, designed to raise awareness about environmental protection and the importance of recycling. This piece, depicting a pregnant woman with her belly symbolizing the Earth, conveys a message about nurturing and protecting our planet. It emphasizes that, while waste can become mere trash, recycling of materials can turn them into something valuable.

    On this floor, there is a small area selling small ceramic products and spiritual decorative items. I was particularly interested in some incense types. According to a staff member, these incense cone-shaped pieces are 100% natural and clean, made from wood particles ground into powder and mixed with glue. The type of wood used determines the aroma of the incense. They offer two types: one made from jade wood (gỗ Ngọc Am) and the other from agarwood (gỗ Trầm Hương). I had tried agarwood incense before, but the scent just didn’t do it for me, even though it’s considered valuable and popular. On the other hand, the jade wood incense smelled nice, but I didn’t end up buying it because it made too much smoke, which was hard for me to enjoy and relax. I also considered buying an artistic incense holder. It was beautiful, but the design was impractical, as the holder was quite deep, making it inconvenient to place the incense cone inside.

    Next, we went to the fifth floor, where people expect to experience a serene environment while having tea, but we were quite disappointed when we arrived. The whole space is open, except for a small area, about 6.5 feet deep where shoes are required to be removed at the door. I didn’t bother taking mine off since I could see everything clearly from the entrance. The area has a meditative vibe, featuring decorative items, crafted objects, and artistic pieces arranged to create a calming atmosphere. However, there wasn’t anything particularly special about it. It feels more like a decorative setup than a real tea-serving space. I did like the vase of lotus flowers at the entrance, though. The tea-serving experience was quite disappointing. It felt rushed because the staff offered us tea as soon as we arrived, before we even had a chance to settle in. No one offered us a second serving. It was more like a tea tasting than an actual tea service. Additionally, there was a small stall selling tea and spiritual products. I did purchase a bag of special black tea with ginseng essence. It was much more expensive than regular types of tea, but I accepted it as part of the experience during our visit.

    We quickly left the tea space and headed to the restaurant on the fourth floor to have lunch. We ordered fried water spinach, fried tofu in soy sauce and green onions, a bowl of rice, dried bamboo shoot and squid soup (a specialty of both the restaurant and the pottery village), and meat sausage in lolot leaves (Lá lốt). I really enjoyed the meal; everything was so delicious. We also ordered spring rolls. The dishes were served generously and abundantly, and three of us couldn’t finish all the food. I think we only ate about a third of the meal. I could’ve eaten a lot more but I wasn’t in the mood for food that day. Anyway, one ordering tip there is to ask for half portions. You don’t have to order a whole dish, as one portion is quite generous and plentiful.

    The coffee and ice cream space is located in an open area right next to the restaurant. I initially wanted coffee, but the variety of ice cream flavors looked so tempting that I decided to go for ice cream instead. I got three scoops: Thai tea, matcha, and rum raisin, and that was the minimum order. Although I loved it, I couldn’t eat a lot at once.

    We spent about 15 minutes there before quickly moving to the basement to enjoy a hands-on experience with pottery. First, we watched an educational video on how to craft pottery. After that, we were instructed to wear an apron and showed our tickets at the counter. The staff then gave us some clay to start our experience. I decided to try making a cup, but it turned out to be much more challenging than I had expected. My hands got very messy, and I struggled to shape the clay the way I wanted. Feeling tired and losing focus, I didn’t want to continue. A staff member came over to help, and with his assistance, I finally managed to create a cup that was ready to be painted. There are two options for painting your product. If you just dry it, you can paint it with regular materials. However, if you choose to fire your product, different materials will be used to glaze it. This option requires an extra fee and a waiting period of about two weeks for the product to be shipped.

    When we moved to the painting area, I felt kind of worn out just looking at the cup. I couldn’t think of any initial idea, so I just painted “tired” on it with a yawning mouth and sleepy eyes. The cup looked ugly. Seeing my friend patiently painting a flower on her cup, I decided to cover up what I had painted earlier, which felt negative. I used three different colors—brown, green, and earthy orange — and brushed and mixed them on the cup. This way, I didn’t have to think too much about the design or worry about details. I quickly painted some flowers, using broad strokes to suggest their shapes rather than carefully drawing each petal. In the end, my cup didn’t turn out too bad. It looked quite artistic to me.

    In this area, I also bought a necklace for my mom. According to the staff, the beads are glazed using a special firing technique that will create different tones and patterns at different temperatures. I’m not sure of the exact name of the enamel, but I think it’s called “Men hỏa biến.” The necklace looks okay, but I think it would look much better if the entire string was covered with small beads. With only a bit more than half of the necklace covered, the string is left exposed. However, given the small payment, I guess that’s all I could expect. I also got sweet butter popcorn, which was great. I really love this snack. Unlike in the US, salted butter popcorn is much more common and easier to find.

    I enjoyed the visit because I love ceramics and pottery. The museum’s design is impressive; the history and development of pottery are cool; the food is delicious and reasonably priced and the pottery-making experience is fun. Tickets are available at various prices; we chose the most expensive one, VND198,000 ($7.83) per person, which includes access to all areas and the pottery-making experience. However, the museum is pretty small, so there isn’t much to see. Also, I really think the space about the history and development of pottery production is the the most valuable part worth the fee. Additionally, the museum is located quite far from Hanoi’s center, making transportation inconvenient. Traditional taxis are expensive but seem to be the most readily available option. I didn’t see any motorbike taxis (xe ôm), and booking a ride through an app like Grab took forever. Public transportation is an option, I have never tried it though.

    In summary, if you don’t mind the small size of the museum, and are interested in ceramic products and the culture of ceramic production, it’s definitely worth a visit. You can learn about the culture, see a lot of ceramic products, and buy them at reasonable prices, all in one place without having to travel far. Also, the nearby traditional pottery market is another great spot to check out.

  • Vietnam travel: Sam Son Beach

    Saturday July 20th, 2024, we were on the way to Sam Son beach. It’s a popular destination for local tourists, mostly from nearby northern and central provinces. It’s about a three-hour drive from Hanoi.

    My sister sponsored this trip. My mom was very excited about it because she loves to be photographed. From the day we planned it, she looked through her wardrobe everyday to pick out items that she could mix and match. I love how she does things, even the smallest tasks, with such diligence and without stress or intensity. I’m the opposite; I prefer to pack as little as possible that fits in my backpack. However, her enthusiasm made me want to prepare more myself. So, I packed nice clothes, skin care and make-up products, etc in case I wanted to look good in photos; all of them fit in my medium-sized suitcase. However, ironically, it’d been almost three days since I got there, I hadn’t worn any nice clothes. I was in shorts, tank tops and T-shirts, and wore flip-flops the whole time. It just takes too much energy to pull everything together for a good look: nice clothes, make-up, hair style, matching shoes and accessories. So, I decided not to bother and just focused on having a good time. I also hadn’t gone into the water because I had a procedure just over a week before. I wanted to avoid potential infections. Plus, the beach was super crowded, especially on the weekends, which made it less appealing to swim or relax there.

    Despite not swimming, I still enjoyed the trip. I’m a big fan of seafood and interested in trying local dishes. The seafood there was so fresh. We ate crabs, clams, calamari, oysters, fish and mantis shrimp cooked in different ways. The mantis shrimp (“Bề bề” or “Tôm tít” in Vietnamese) was amazing and crawfish doesn’t even compare. This shrimp has much more meat, is easy to peel, and has a juicy texture. I think it’s always delicious, whether it’s cooked in any way or served on its own or with other foods. If this shrimp is marketed seriously, it could become even more popular than crawfish.

    One evening, we stopped at a food stand famous for sweet soups, drinks and street foods. You can find all different types of sweet soups from all over Vietnam here. The soups are typically sweet and creamy, with various toppings such as tapioca pearls, jelly, nuts, fruits and other ingredients, depending on which soup you order. About street foods, they serve “Bánh xèo” (Vietnamese crepe). It’s loaded with a variety of ingredients, including shrimp, bean sprouts, carrots, onions and more. The crepes are cut into small pieces, ready to be wrapped in rice paper together with veggies and herbs. While I don’t know all their names, there are plenty, such as lettuce, mustard greens, cucumbers, and some exotic ones like ming aralia (đinh lăng), lolot (lá lốt), and skunk vine leaves (lá mơ). I love eating rolls though it takes a bit of time to make them ready. “Bánh xèo” is dipped in fish sauce, mixed to be sour, sweet, and spicy. I was amazed how delicious the food was the first time I tried it here, so I was really excited to go back. However, the second experience wasn’t as good as the first. “Bánh xèo” didn’t meet my expectations this time. It seemed like they’ve changed ingredients; I didn’t like the green beans and sweet potatoes that they added. Interestingly, while we were eating, it started raining hard. Since the place didn’t have a roof, we had to stand shoulder to shoulder at the covered counter and wait for the owner to set one up. The rain then lightened up and the roof was ready, we’d hoped to continue our meal. But soon, the rain intensified again. With the wind blowing it from the sides, the roof couldn’t keep all the rain out. To make matters worse, the electricity went out. I got a little wet, and we had to cut our dinner short and planned to head back to the hotel. But when we left, the rain stopped, so we went to AHA coffee shop instead to enjoy the rest of our evening.

    We wanted to find a local cafe with some unique character instead of a chain like AHA, but the choices here are pretty limited. Just like 99% of the time when I visit a coffee shop in VN, I ordered “Nâu nóng”, a traditional hot coffee with condensed milk, rather than choosing other drinks. I love its aroma and sweet, bitter taste. Sipping it while chatting or just enjoying my time alone is a favorite activity of mine. However, due to a miscommunication, the order taker brought me an iced coffee. I told him about the mistake. He took the cup away reluctantly and returned with a different one. I was disappointed when the new coffee arrived because it looked different from the usual coffee I get at this chain – the color, texture, and even the cup.

    I tried to stay positive, thinking maybe this is how they prepare condensed milk coffee at that specific place. I took a sip, but it was disappointing; the coffee wasn’t thick or rich, and the flavor was light. It seemed like hot water had been added to the original cup, or they just removed the ice, rather than making a fresh cup for me. I called another waiter and told him it was the worst coffee I had ever had at AHA. He took my cup away and returned with the correct one. Finally, I could enjoy the coffee, but I couldn’t drink much, especially Vietnamese coffee as it contains  a lot of caffeine, which I should limit during my IVF treatment.

    During our time there, we visited Sunworld water park, a temple and planned to see a water show, but it was canceled because the country’s leader had just passed away. So no public events were held during that period. We felt a bit disappointed as we were very excited for our parents to see the show, which I have never seen either. We also went to a play area at Hai Tien beach, around a 1-hr drive from Sam Son beach at night, but again it was closed. On the way there, we checked out several places to try local foods such as eel noodle soup, fried eel noodles and chicken salad. My sister even looked for grilled eggs but she wasn’t lucky. I’d tried them before in Saigon. The liquid inside an egg is extracted, mixed with salt, garlic, and pepper, and then injected back into the egg.

    On the way back to Hanoi, we had lunch at Ba Cửa Restaurant in Ninh Binh, where we enjoyed goat meat.

    I loved citrus-cured goat salad, grilled goat meat, and goat sausage. Well, too much protein throughout the vacation. We then drove back to Hanoi in the rain; it wasn’t as bad as we’d feared. We were expecting worse because of the storm forecast. It rained everyday while we were there, but whenever we needed to go out, it magically stopped. Overall, the trip was great, but there were a few things I didn’t like, such as a power outage at our hotel from the afternoon until 1 a.m., water hygiene concerns where we stayed, and a foul smell in some areas near the beach after the heavy rain. But above all, I truly cherish the time with my family, which is more precious than anything else I’ve experienced on the trip. I’m not sure when I’ll have another gathering like that. It reminds me of how important these moments are and how grateful I am for the chance to have shared them with my family.

  • Hanoi: Shop and Eat

    The 2023 Winter festive season…

    While waiting for a doctor visit in the evening, we went to a store selling genuine leather products. This place is the flagship store owned by “Leather and Shoes Research Institute” on Hoang Hoa Tham Street. 

    The store, with two floors, showcases a variety of distinguished leather products – belts, wallets, handbags, shoes, sandals and more. The first floor has items for men, while the second floor features products for women. The materials are sourced from the skin of ostriches, crocodiles to cows, highlighting the craftsmanship behind each piece.

    S browsed through wallets, intending to buy some as gifts. The staff showed him some models. Though he liked all of them, he preferred the ones with matte finishes, instead of glossy ones. We ended up buying eight wallets.

    A manager came up to us and started a friendly conversation. She was very pleasant, sharing some insights about the products. She mentioned that the company has its own farms for materials and emphasized that all the products are crafted in Vietnam. There was a sense of pride in her voice, and she was really thankful for customers like us who genuinely appreciate the company’s creations. She even surprised us by wishing a Happy Thanksgiving. She said her daughter was currently studying in the US, which explains why she is aware of the event. It was also particularly thoughtful when she reminded the staff to choose nice boxes for our buys because she knew we bought them as gifts.

    A small disappointment was that S couldn’t find sandals in his size because the company doesn’t make them for larger sizes. They were soft, light, and appeared exceptionally comfortable. S wanted them so bad that he even joked about cutting his toes to fit into those.

    Next, S looked for belts. Despite having other alternatives, he’s been loyal to the  belt I bought him nine years ago, even as it shows signs of wear. This time, since he has a special interest in the company’s leather products, I encouraged him to get new belts, so he got two: one crafted from crocodile skin priced at around $120 and the other from cowhide for $18. With the two new belts, I still doubt if he is going to use them anytime soon, given his strong attachment to his current worn belt. 

    We left the store without checking the second floor, which houses female products. S encouraged me to get a new purse because he noticed the zipper on my current one isn’t working well. Oh well, I admit I’m like S in that if we like something, we don’t have an intention to change it for a long time. However, the difference between us is that I have more tolerance for small defects as long as something is still beautiful. Like my pretty purse, I just need to be a bit patient to make the zipper work well. But this won’t happen to S; convenience must be his top priority. 

    Content with our purchases, we left the store and continued walking, hoping to find a taxi. However, it was a mistake as getting a taxi during peak hours on this street wasn’t easy. It was incredibly crowded, jam-packed with vehicles; the sidewalk was filled with various items for sale, making us difficult to find a spot to wait. The noise and dust added the overall discomfort.

    Eventually, we managed to secure a taxi, and the driver drove us to Quán An Ngon, a popular spot for both locals and tourists to experience Vietnamese cuisine.

    Upon entering through the main gate, the enticing aroma of delicious food captivated me. The arrangement of stalls, resembling a traditional village market showcasing various food in the yard, around the restaurant drew me in. The peaceful and nostalgic atmosphere of such markets remains vivid in my memory, which made me feel automatically connected to the restaurant. 

    We ordered quite a bunch of food. We had spring rolls, eel soup, sautéed diced beef (Bò lúc lắc) with French fries, clams in tamarind and butter sauce and grilled shrimp. “Bò lúc lắc” is commonly known as “shaking beef” because “lúc lắc” means “shaking”, likely referring to the pan-frying method over flames, involving shaking the pan, making the beef cubes to shake. However, I find its other English name, “sauteed diced beef” more convincing. The word “lúc lắc” resembles the action and sound of shaking dice, and the beef is cut into cubes that look like dice.

    For drinks, I ordered guava juice and S opted for salted lemonade. As they didn’t have a typical salted lemonade, they put salt and sugar aside for him to make it himself. I finished the meal with my favorite sweet soup as dessert. It was so delicious with coconut milk, jellies and water chestnut stuffed tapioca pearls. The drink service was a bit slow, and the staff brought us broccoli instead of chayote buds (Ngọn su su) due to his misunderstanding; however, the overall dining experience was still very delightful. The whole cost was reasonable, $46 for both. 

    The next day, I brought S to Aeon Mall, a Japanese-run shopping destination that many people favor. Since it was Black Friday, there were a lot of items on sale. We eyed suitcases as we had purchased quite a lot, and he was concerned that our current ones might not be big enough. 

    There were a bunch of plastic suitcases, but we preferred fabric ones. S said plastic holds onto odors longer while fabric absorbs smells better. I found fabric suitcases more appealing for its adjustable space. Another advantage was its lightweight nature. We came across one that caught our interest but I suggested checking out other stores before making a final decision. I didn’t want to miss out on better finds or deals. After a quick tour of suitcase exploration, we circled back to the first store and purchased that one. No discount, but we were both into it, and the black color perfectly matches our existing suitcases. 

    We left the suitcase there, as we didn’t want to drag it around to other shops, and to the third floor, where the food court was for lunch. On the way, I stopped by a massage chair and inserted around 70 cents for a quick 10 minute massage. So pleasant. 

    In the food court, we found a diverse selection of food from different local regions and countries. Hot pot seemed to be the most popular dish there. It’s intriguing that Americans aren’t a fan of hot pot because of “too much work”, heat and food sharing nature instead of individual portions. We spotted Alfredo, an Italian restaurant, my favorite and the allure of grilled meat from Korean restaurants appealed to us. But, we finally settled on Nét Huế, a Vietnamese restaurant, serving cuisine from the imperial city of Hue. 

    When I looked at the menu, I just wanted to order all of them because they all looked delicious. Honestly, Hue cuisine is my favorite due to its spiciness and rich flavors. We ordered grilled pork for S and  “Cơm hến”, a bowl with a mix of rice, baby clams, herbs, and pickles for me. Additionally, we tried Ram. I think “Ram”, “Nem rán”, and “Chả giò” are all spring rolls, each known by different names depending on the region – “Ram” in the Central area, “Nem rán” in the North and “Chả giò” in the South.

    The grilled pork was so good that S couldn’t stop eating it all though he should have saved room for dinner. My Dad would cook us special grilled pork using his secret recipe, reserved for special occasions. Knowing my Dad’s excitement to introduce this to his son-in-law, I had hoped S would have a light lunch, then he would enthusiastically eat my Dad’s food and make him happy. But that mission was too difficult for him. Not only did he eat a lot but also loaded up on sugary drinks. During the meal, he got one salted lemonade and two “Chanh tuyết” (snow lemonade smoothies). Then, he continued with two fresh bubble teas and one bottled bubble tea after leaving the restaurant. Oh, S, he was both satisfied but guilty at the same time. 

    Though S overindulged but I was happy I chose the right restaurant. Honestly, I rarely go wrong with my eating-out choices. However, S is the opposite. Whenever I let him decide where to eat, the experience is often just meh. It’s understandable since he’s not the type to pay attention to reviews or care much before selecting a restaurant.

    The night before S left Vietnam, our family went to a restaurant for its buffet, called Maison Sen. 

    Since we went there during the Christmas season, the facade of the restaurant was adorned with numerous Christmas-themed decorations—red balls, silver leaves, and sparkling strings of warm white lights. It looked fancy, and my niece was in awe when she saw the place.  ​

    The buffet at this chain has never disappointed me; it was fantastic. Everything there was delightful. There were so many options that I couldn’t possibly try them all, so I had to prioritize. I have a liking for seafood, especially shellfish, sashimi, and sweet soup. Those were my main focus. I indulged in a lot of snails and clams, both steamed and grilled, and they were exquisite—juicy, fresh, and naturally sweet. The flavor was exceptional. As for sashimi, I enjoyed salmon as always but was truly impressed with another type of fish. I can’t recall its name, but what stood out was the very firm texture of the fish. 

    One of the big attractions for me each time I return to VN is savoring delicious and flavorful food while immersing myself in a carefree atmosphere. When we were in Aeon’s food court, S threw in a funny idea that he would make room in his belly by inducing vomit, so he could stay there all day and try all the food. We can’t find such a vibe and the abundance of fresh, authentic food in where we live. 

  • Evening in Old Quarter

    The 2023 Winter festive season…

    S and I planned to visit the Old Quarter to look for gifts after dinner. My sister said there wasn’t much too see there on weekdays. She recommended going over the weekend when certain streets are blocked for pedestrians, with various activities like dancing, entertainment shows, and vendors selling toys, savory and sweet snacks and drinks, etc., However, I really didn’t care much about those attractions; I just wanted to experience daily life in the Old Quarter, though it’s already a famous tourist spot. I think any experience has its merits. And I believe I can always find beauty or fun in what I do or where I go.

    We parked the car near Phung Hung street, a foodie hotspot. A lot of young locals hang out here. The whole sidewalk is filled with many plastic chairs and tables, and stalls showing off all kinds of foods, including seafood, grilled meat, and veggies. Along the street, it’s very often to see restaurant staff standing and inviting you to try their food. An unpleasant surprise was that I spotted a place selling dog meat, not just one, but a few displaying whole cooked dogs. To shield S from that sight, I covered his eyes with my hand and urged him to pass by quickly.

    We turned onto Hang Luoc street where they sell a variety of decorative items. The Christmas is around the corner, so the whole street is full of Christmas-themed decorative items.

    My sister took photos of us, but I hesitated, worried sellers might not be happy if we didn’t buy anything. Yet, my sister reassured me, saying we would be good as long as we kept moving without lingering in front of their shops. Plus, it wasn’t crowded, so the sellers would be more easy-going. 

    For an easy stroll, we simply kept moving straight ahead.  Streets in the Old Quarter are very short, so it didn’t take us much time to reach Cha Ca street, then onto the next one, Hang Can.

    The next street is all about toys. We found out they had piggy banks, placed on the sidewalk, at cheap prices. You know what, they looked 99% like the ones that we almost spent $45 each at a fancy store a few days ago. At that time, we really wanted to get those because they looked so adorable. But they didn’t have carved stamps, representing Bat Trang village, renowned for crafting ceramics, though the store was a representative of items from this village. Therefore, we held off buying them. 

    We kept going and then stopped by a small store, selling crafted goods on Luong Van Can Street. S went inside and was attracted immediately to the Vietnamese dolls, skillfully crafted by local artists. The dolls represent Vietnamese ethnic people. The prices for the two he liked were expensive, around $300 for both. After bargaining, we got a 10% discount. S was very happy to have found gifts for his nieces. 

    Then we turned onto Hang Hanh and Bao Khanh streets, intending to revisit a crafted stone shop, but unfortunately, it had been replaced with a different gift shop.

    We strolled around Ho Guom, the Sword Lake, the heart of Hanoi. Then, we crossed the main street to enter Trang Tien street, where we stopped by Trang Tien ice cream shop, a local favorite and a must-visit destination for tourists.

    Next, we decided to take a break at Aha Coffee, a near-by coffee shop, before heading home. I ordered “Cà phê phin”, Vietnamese traditional coffee, hoping they would bring out a small cup with a stainless filter on the top, reminiscent of how I used to enjoy it in the past. However, without much surprise, they brought a cup already filled with hot coffee and a thin layer of condensed milk at the bottom. I’ve noticed that the practice of serving coffee with a stainless filter is disappearing. I have tried various well-known coffee shops, but I haven’t successfully found a typtical “Cà phê phin”. It’s understandable that things have changed to align with the fast-paced industrial rhythm. However, the coffee retained its bold and robust flavor, perfect to my taste. Sipping coffee is a retreat to me, a moment of connection with myself, offering peace and equilibrium, precisely what I needed that night (…).

    We had a fun and happy evening; we’ve found beautiful gifts for our kids. Though there were small bumps along the way (…), they are all parts of my life’s journey.

  • Vietnam travel – Tam Dao

    I visited Tam Dao ages ago, and to be honest, it didn’t leave a strong impressions on me. What sticks in my memory is battling car sickness on the twisty and turny road. One highlight from that trip was savoring the delicious crunchy sautéed chayote buds. I guess the main reason those memories aren’t as vivid is because I didn’t really know the people I went with; it was organized by a social club I had just joined. However, this recent trip left me immense joy and wonderful memories as I went with S and our family. Growing older and living far from my family has taught me to cherish precious moments spent with loved ones.

    Initially, S wasn’t interested in going as he felt tired. But I could tell my sister was really excited about the trip. Not wanting to let her down, I persuaded him to join us. He agreed once he found out there was a waterfall to explore. The drive wasn’t too long, just around 1.5 hours from Hanoi. As we approached the destination, the scenery unfolded with lush mountains, and grand houses and charming hotels nestled on the mountainside. S seemed impressed by the view, snapping photos constantly.

    We went through narrow mountain roads and eventually parked in a place near the waterfall. Following a small path, we encountered a stairway (of around 300 steps, though I’m not certain) leading to the waterfall.

    Various shops and stalls line the way, selling snacks, drinks, and souvenirs. The sellers were enthusiastic and friendly, constantly asking us to use their products but we didn’t want to stop midway, so we declined. One seller kindly offered a stick, suggesting it could make our walk easier. S responded, “I’m not that old.” His dry humor had everyone bursting into laughter. 

    Finally, we reached the last step. From there, the waterfall came into view, but we were all taken aback by a foul smell. The water was polluted, with white foam in the bottom. It seemed more like wastewater from nearby houses and hotels than natural water. According to S, most of the ground is rocky, which probably leaves nowhere for the sewage to go, so it ends up at the lower level, contaminating the waterfall. We quickly ran away from the place. It’s so funny that when my sister saw me in boots, she had urged me to bring a pair of sandals because in her imagination, we would have a playful time in the water. 

    Going up was more challenging than going down. Everyone grew tired. My knees and legs felt a bit tired but that was it. That’s probably because doing household chores and yard work often has somehow given me strength. My sister, on the other hand, felt dizzy, struggled with shallow breath, and had to ask B & H to help her walk up. And S joked that now he needed a stick. LOL!!!

    After reaching the final step, we took a break. The kids got ice cream and we went for grilled eggs. The dipping sauce was amazing. I didn’t know how it was made but gosh, a mix of salt, kumquat juice, pepper and a secret ingredient made the grilled eggs up to a whole new level. We also ordered “Nước Sấu”, a macerated fruit juice, representing a traditional drink of Hanoi in the past when beverage choices, especially for students, were quite limited. “Sấu”, or Indochina Dragonplum fruit, is picked when green, and soaked in sugar. Its essence is then mixed with water to create a sweet and sour beverage. The flesh of the macerated fruit was sweet, pleasantly sour, and crispy. Although I used to like it a lot, the experience that day wasn’t as great. 

    We continued exploring the area and then stopped for some savory snacks. As I said, Vietnamese people are big on food, always eager to try various dishes, especially while traveling. Knowing we would have dinner later, we didn’t want to overeat snacks. My sister ordered small portions of grilled meat and sticky rice. The grilled meat had distinct flavors, each marinated uniquely, and they were wrapped around veggies like mustard greens and “chayote buds”. We also enjoyed them with herbs and some leaves , creating a fantastic combo. The sticky rice was equally special, displaying various colors from different types of rice. It was tender, sweet, and delicious. However, I didn’t eat much to save room for dinner.

    Next, we ventured through the area by grabbing an electric vehicle for a short tour. The driver took us through the small roads, passing houses, restaurants, shops, and giving us a top view of the landscape. He also introduced a temple on the way, but none of us felt like going inside; I hesitated too, considering I was wearing shorts, which wasn’t appropriate for entering a religious place. We continued on the road while trying to take some nice photos of the sunset and the mountainous view.

    The scenery was undoubtedly beautiful but I found it somewhat boring as it looked the same throughout the place. The driver finally took us to where we parked. Though the car tour didn’t leave a strong impression of the natural view, observing people and experiencing the bustling atmosphere of daily life brought me a lot of joy.

    Afterward, we leisurely strolled around the place, and gosh, food was everywhere! All sorts of snacks and savory treats, making it a feast for the eyes and nose. In the central area, hotels and restaurants stood shoulder to shoulder with new buildings under construction. This made me ponder how they could attract enough customers to fill all the rooms, given the relatively small size of the tourist place. There didn’t seem to be enough space for public activities. A small square was brimming with people, sharing limited space for various activities and performances.

    Long walking made us feel hungry quickly, so we stopped at the restaurant my sister had previously enjoyed. Our order included Indian wampee stuffed grilled chicken, chayote buds (definitely), and fried rice. That was pretty much all I could recall.

    After dinner, we continued wandering around the town. As night fell, the place took on much more enchanting allure, bathed in warm, cozy light. The European-style architecture, especially in the chilly early days of winter, exuded a romantic atmosphere, even for those with lonely hearts. 

    We paused at a stall for my sister to buy chestnuts. In my memory, whenever I saw this type of nut sold on the street, it reminded me that winter had actually arrived. S got intrigued by dried fruits in various colors. However, my sister told us not to buy them, concerning that these imported fruits might have a lot of additives and preservatives. So, we decided to pass on them.

    We then visited the church—a stone structure perched in a high location that offers a stunning view of the whole area at night. The crisp air, gentle breeze, crystal moon light, and especially the sweet fragrance from nearby plants, collectively crafted a truly remarkable experience.

    Leaving the church, my mind was still lingering with the pleasant floral scent, very familiar, reminiscent of the calmness, peace, and tranquility associated with a type of plant often seen at temples. But I couldn’t pinpoint exactly which plants the enchanting scent was coming from. As we walked back to the parking lot, I saw a plant full of flowers along the road. I stopped, smelled—oh my goodness, it was that same scent as the one from the church. Reflecting on that specific type of plant at temples and looking at that plant, wow they looked completely different, but it was remarkable how similar they smelled.

    We left the church, heading back to Hanoi with a surplus of energy, satisfaction, and joy from the trip. It was already dark, and my sister was so afraid of driving without street lights. It brought back memories of my initial days when I first moved to the US. During those times, when S drove at night, I used to think, “Wow, I would never be able to drive in the darkness like this,” and I truly admired him for it. However, as I became more accustomed to the traffic there, I realized that driving in the darkness has fewer distractions than navigating streets filled with cars and bright lights, especially the white ones.

    We returned to Hanoi around 9 p.m. Despite that, my sister still had a lot of energy. We headed to a coffee shop where children could enjoy painting statues as well. The coffee shop showed off cute and lovely decor, perfect for teenagers and kids, not my old soul. Anyway, this place offered the best combination of entertainment and enjoying drinks. 

    We ordered bubble tea, while my sister and brother-in-law got unsweetened tea. I got salted coffee as well. They typically serve this coffee with ice, but I prefer it hot, so I told them to make it that way. 

    Then, we chose statues and got tools and colors to get ready for painting. While the kids picked cute and lovely statues, S chose a massive dragon. It looked cocky and aggressive, appearing ready to explode with emotions like “someone”. 

    That dragon had loads of details to paint, and at first, S was thrilled about it. He didn’t care how the dragon would look, he just went with the colors he liked, which were obviously bold choices. However, his enthusiasm waned quickly, right after finishing the half front of the dragon. He asked me for help, and then my brother-in-law and B also joined. I tried to balance out the colors so that the dragon would appear clearer. The completed dragon turned out really cool with vivid, bold, and colorful hues. Its appearance perfectly matched the traits I envisioned for it.

    In general, it was a wonderful trip. We relished our time together, had loads of fun, enjoyed delicious food, and ended the day with vibrant, beautiful statues. We captured special photos of the landscape and of us, carrying beautiful memories for many years to come. 

  • Vietnam travel – Mai Chau

    ​We tried to squeeze in some short vacations during our time in Vietnam amidst medical appointments. The first destination was Mai Chau—a mountainous area, a three-and-a-half-hour drive each way from Hanoi.

    When we were near the tourist place, we made a pit stop at a roadside rest area. There, they offered a variety of food and snacks. We opted to savor three distinct treats: grilled eggs, grilled pork, and sticky rice cooked in bamboo. While the eggs were kind of meh, just like regular boiled ones. But the pork was something else, marinated to perfection. The Sichuan pepper (hạt mắc khén) gave it a rich flavor, complemented by the delightful aroma from charcoal grilling. Explaining why the meat tasted exceptional, the seller said it comes from pigs raised naturally on wholesome feed rather than industrial fare. According to him, these pigs grow slowly and weigh less than the typical ones. The last treat was sticky rice which was truly delightful—soft, tender, and sweet. Since lunch was around the corner, I had to hold back from overeating. Meanwhile, S was trying pickled hot peppers. These tiny things were crazy spicy but he loved them. We bought two jars and later found out we got ripped off; each jar was double the price in the central tourist area. Bye-bye that place – won’t be seeing us again.

    Right after that, we headed to the center for lunch. Vietnamese people have a deep passion for food, and we were eager to explore various cuisines during our trip. My sister picked a restaurant that she previously had a pleasant experience with, and we quickly ordered steamed snails, grilled chicken, and grilled fish. These snails, according to the owner, unlike river snails, live in the mountains, eat grass only. Therefore, they are considered a clean source of food. The grilled chicken, stuffed with fragrant Indian wampee leaves (lá mắc mật) had an enticing flavor, but honestly, I preferred the leaves on their own. The charcoal-grilled fish smelled amazing. We paired it with herbs, veggies, and wrapped it all in rice paper, dipping it into a delicious sweet and sour fish sauce of sugar, vinegar, garlic, and hot peppers.

    Well, Americans typically avoid bones and prefer boneless meat. Whole fish or chicken are not commonly consumed. Snails are also not on their menu. But since we’re exploring Vietnam, I wanted him to experience as much authentic cuisine as possible. Anyway, he’s not much of a food enthusiast and finished eating quickly. While we enjoyed the dishes, he wandered around. The area had various shops with everything from toys and bags to blankets and crafts—a collection of miscellaneous and eclectic things. Among these, there were many embroidered products, making me ponder whether they were locally made or possibly imported from China for cost-effectiveness and convenience rather than being locally crafted.

    Following lunch, we grabbed an electric car to check out the ethnic villages. It cost us $18 for 8 people. (The prices, displayed on the vehicle, are set per person. Kids ride without any charge).

    From the vehicle, we enjoyed a beautiful, sunny, breezy afternoon and took in the landscape with its mountains, rice fields, buffaloes, and stilt houses. The mountains are stunning but the rice fields don’t leave much of an impression since they were bare at that time. Stilt houses, a distinctive feature in mountainous ethnic regions, stand out with their unique design. They are crafted from wood, featuring steps leading to the first floors, supported by pillars.

    As we passed through each village, we came across numerous shops lining the road, displaying a diverse array of items. We made a quick stop at one store, where S bought a thin blanket at $6.50. Soon after, women adorned in ethnic attire invited us to join them in a traditional dance. The dance is called “nhảy sạp”. In this dance, two equal groups of people, each holding a stick in their hands. With the music playing, they bring the sticks together and dancers swiftly leap in. Subsequently, as they pull the the sticks apart, dancers leap between the gaps. The sticks’ movements create a lively, rhythmic pattern that is in harmony with the music.

    We passed through 4 or 5 villages, and then the driver brought us to a bamboo forest to witness bamboo flowers. He said it’s this rare thing since they only pop up when the bamboos are on their last legs. Not sure if that’s true, but it got us curious enough to pay some extra fee for him to take us there. Upon arrival, it wasn’t exactly a forest; rather, it was more like a bunch of bamboo bushes. Only one of them was in bloom, and the flowers were tiny. They hung together like little strings, but due to their small size and the height of the bamboo, I couldn’t snap a decent photo or fully grasp the beauty of the flowers.

    I was eager to explore further, thinking we were still en route to the final spot, an ethnic community for some cool activities. However, my sister said this was it; the tour was done. Unbelievable! We just cruised through the villages on the main road, did quick stops at only two or three shops, and checked out just one stilt house. Though the end of the tour was unexpected, it’s still a hilarious surprise.

    The driver then brought us back to where our car was parked. S discreetly gave him some tips, following my advice not to let my mom see it. In Vietnam, tipping isn’t the norm, and my mom strongly believes it’s a waste of money, so it’s better to keep it quiet.

    On the way back, we intended to visit a Vietnamese steak restaurant, however, S just wanted to get home as quickly as possible. All that sitting, be it on the flights and in the car, really took a toll on him.

    Despite not being particularly impressed by the natural surroundings, I personally enjoyed the trip. It was a chance to make lasting memories with my family. Plus, savoring the local eats was a highlight for me. On the contrary, S wasn’t too fond of the tour, saying that it was kind of staged, like a set up for tourists. He’s more into natural and spontaneous adventures.